Nature versus Nurture - Who's the real winner?

Picture yourself as an adventurer in the 1800s, you find yourself on one of the picturesque islands of Samoa, admiring the crystal clear water, luscious jungles and the smiling hosts in their intricate dress.  Poet Rupert Brooke did just this and described it thus:

“You lie on a mat in a cool Samoan hut, and look out on the white sand under the high palms and gentle sea, and the black line of the reef a mile out and moonlight over everything.  And then among it all are the loveliest people in the world…It is sheer beauty, so pure it is difficult to breathe it in.”

Now consider travelling to modern day Samoa, would you have the same experience?

Well the obvious answer is no.  Now that the islands have become much more accessible, they have become very tourist friendly.  There are now resorts, hotels, restaurants, tourist stands and gift shops, all of which have been placed to attract the foreign vacationer. 

The traditionalists will say that it’s a shame that such a beautiful culture has been so affected by Western civilization and that the country has become too commercialized. 

But this is too simplistic. 

The Samoans still stay true to their culture (see my previous blog ‘Fale Faux Pas’) but now they are just able to share it with more of the world. Sure, we all need to be mindful that nations like these don’t get exploited but adding these modern tourist attractions can in fact be beneficial for the local people.  Often (not always) it is these people who see greater profits thanks to an increased number of tourists. 

When we travel, we must be mindful of the sort of footprint we leave.  It is impossible to be the perfect traveler in this sense but in doing a little bit of research, we can do our best to ensure that the money we spend ends up in the hands of those who need it most.

Fale Faux Pas

If you could indulge me for a moment please think back to what you did last Sunday.  Were you watching football? Were you in the garden? Were you working? Were you busy doing anything at all?

 

Not in Samoa you weren’t.

In Samoa, Sunday is a day to attend church and to be with family, any other sort of activity is frowned upon.  Even something as simple as going for a run is seen as disrespectful, as you are expected to behave quietly and travel slowly around villages. 

Now picture yourself in Samoa.

What do you want to do when you get there?

You want to check out the local church?

Good call!

But whatever you do, don’t point your feet at ANYONE.  This is seen as very rude.  You need to tuck those nasty things beneath your legs or cover them up with your lavalava. 

WHAT!??  

You don’t know what a lavalava is? 

You thought you could just wear pants?  

Not a chance, this is a sacred day for the Samoan people, traditional clothing must be worn to church.  Just do this and you will be able to get through Sundays easily.

It’s Tuesday now? 

You were just standing around a fale and then someone yelled at you to sit down?

Well did you notice that there were elders seated in there?  Either that or you were pointing with your toes again…

It is considered customary for one not to stand in a fale where elders are seated.  Don’t make that mistake again.  And for heaven’s sake, if you want to take a photo, make sure you ask permission first.

Look, don’t stress about travelling to Samoa.  All you need to do is travel smart and do a bit of research before you go, or even just ask questions when you get there.  The culture is certainly different from Western culture but if you go over there open to their ideals and traditions then you will have a trip to remember!

Fashion in Samoa - The Dos and Don'ts

Dress is a part of traditional Samoan culture and is still evident in their society today.  From leisure clothing, to business attire, to church going wear, the Samoan style is quite distinct, similar to other Polynesian nations but with a distinct flavour of its own.  Also, as discussed in a previous blog, young men and women are given intricate tattoos in a traditional ceremony as part of the passage to adulthood.  Like any tattoo (hopefully) these are worn proudly for the rest of the recipient’s life. 

Common wear for ladies is the Puletasi, which is a two-piece combining a delicately woven top with a matching sarong, known as a lava-lava.  Women wear these regularly to formal occasions such as church and other cultural events.  These garments are hand woven with traditional Samoan patterns inspired by nature, regularly featuring tributes to the ocean, flowers and leaves. 

The lavalava is more everyday wear and is worn by men as well as women.  In Samoa it is often used as part of a school uniform but its versatility is evident, as many opt to wear it to work, accompanying their shirt, jacket and tie.  Many who leave the island often choose to frequently wear in a new society to presumably pay tribute to their heritage. 

Now I know from my perspective that it would be a little bit surprising to observe a man enjoying his lunch, presumably dressed in full business attire, only to discover that he is wearing a sarong from waist down.  This is not to say that this notion is offensive but rather that it is merely a healthy challenge to cultural ‘norms’.  On the other hand, there are relatively strict dress code standards for visitors to Samoa.  On the Samoan travel website, it mentions that women should not wear shorts or pants but rather don the lavalava, especially to church.  It is also considered offensive for women to wear revealing clothing and topless sunbathing is most definitely forbidden.

The Samoans have some beautiful dress traditions and it is understandable that they wish visitors to uphold these traditions. 

Samoa - More Than Just a Pretty Face

What is it that first comes to mind about Samoa?  The tattoos?  The rugby players? The girl’s dancing in their patterned dresses? The Haka?  The waterfalls and beaches?  The Rock?

In preparation for this blog I asked a few friends the same question.  Their responses were all aligned, with almost all responding with one of the above answers (it was one avid wrestling fan who replied emphatically with ‘The Rock!’).  Indeed, I asked myself the same question and these were certainly the images that first came to mind.  Interestingly enough, the natural beauty of the islands was either an afterthought or not mentioned at all. 

 

This certainly begs the question, why?  Why are these the images that come to mind and is it a good thing?  Well, to answer this I looked up the Samoan tourist site and one of the main links to click on is ‘Fa’a Samoa – The Samoan Way’.  Within this section is a brief description of Samoan culture pertaining to rituals, family life and their Christian heritage, not to mention the dos and don’ts of staying in a Samoan village.  There is even a subsection that describes the women’s dance, the Siva.

 

It is obvious that the Islanders celebrate these things, as it is an impressive thing to have a country so steeped in tradition and culture and with such an incredible sense of family.  It is remiss of us however, to forget that there is more to the set of islands than these initial thoughts.  In fact, I am blatantly guilty of this, as if you read my first two blogs, you will see that it is these areas of Samoan life that I focus on.  While we should appreciate these parts of the Samoan culture, we must also consider other aspects of the country, such as the natural beauty of the place amongst other things.

Samoan Souvenirs - A Tribute to Wartime

When one visits another country, more often than not they will look to take home a memento or souvenir to remember the trip.  A journey to Samoa is no different.  There are many different items available around Samoa that would look impressive on the mantelpiece or hung up on the wall.  From hand-carved wooden statues to beautiful jewellery, there is obviously no lack of craftsmanship in the Polynesian country.  A popular choice, however, is to take home a weapon!  Not a real weapon (this wouldn’t go down to well with customs) but rather a wooden carving of the original stone made weapons.  They are also often decorated with patterns and images reflective of the Pacific Island culture. 

It is interesting that many people (including myself) opt to take home these replicas when there are many other beautiful choices on offer.  Perhaps it is just for the ornate carvings on them, or maybe we have some sort of primal attraction toward these primitive weapons.  Nevertheless, they serve as a reminder to the beauty and tradition of the Polynesian country, and of the rich history that is still evident in the country today.

 

While these carvings are obviously not (really) functional, they are mostly quite accurate in depicting the weapons that Samoans used to use in battle.  Well before the invention of gunpowder, these stone weapons were used and were pivotal in Samoan warfare.  To a nation that is steeped in rich tradition and culture, these are reminders of their heritage, small tokens of respect to the ancestors who have gone, and fought before them. 

The Tribal Tattoo - Is Fashion More Important than Cultural Respect?

Like many of the Pacific Islands, Samoa has a deep and rich tradition of tattooing young men and women when they come of age.  In fact it is believed that the English word tattoo is derived from the Polynesia word tatau.  The boys are given the Pe'a, which covers from the waist to the knees, and the girls receive the Malu, somewhat more delicate than the male Pe'a.  The tattooing is done by highly respected tattoo masters, who use handmade tools made out of wood, bone and turtle shells.  Although these masters are highly skilled at their art, there is a great amount of pain for the young men and women who receive the treatment and the process usually lasts a number of weeks but on rare occasions can take much longer, up to a year.  Nevertheless, it is a proud and exciting moment for the recipient as many rituals accompany the tattoo process and family members are often present, providing encouraging words and song from a distance.In recent years, however, there has been a trend for people without Samoan heritage to get these traditional patterns permanently inked.  In this way, the Pe’a and the Malu have become contested.  What is traditionally a coming-of-age process is now becoming a mere fashion statement to many who are blissfully unaware of the meaning behind it.  It must be said, however, that it is generally not the traditional full Pe’a or Malu which has become fashionable but rather simply aspects of it, such as particular patterns or images.

On the surface it seems ignorant of someone who is not from Samoa to effectively steal what is an important aspect of the Polynesian Island’s culture.  Perhaps though, in taking only a few patterns from the designs, people are paying respect to a proud country and culture.